RV storage near Fairhope can be deceptively tricky. The RV can be parked in “perfect” weather, and then it can be opened weeks later to a musty smell, low tires, or a dead battery. That’s not because you did something wrong. It’s because Gulf Coast heat, humidity, and storm season are hard on anything that sits still.
This checklist is built to keep your RV ready to roll when storage is over—whether it’s for 30 days, 90 days, or a full 180-day seasonal stretch.Before storage (always):
Exterior and roof should be cleaned
Interior should be cleaned and fully dried
All food should be removed
Seals should be checked (roof, windows, slides)
Moisture control should be added
Tires should be inflated to the right PSI
A battery plan should be set
During storage:
30 days: quick moisture check every couple weeks (if access allows)
90 days: add pest prevention + monthly PSI checks
180 days: stronger moisture plan + storm plan + inspection schedule
After storage:
Leaks should be checked (roof, seams, slides)
Tires should be inspected for cracks and pressure
Brakes and lights should be tested
Interior should be aired out before a trip
These steps are boring, but they are what prevents the annoying problems later.
Moisture and pests are attracted to one thing: a place that feels “lived in.” That’s why cleaning matters more than people expect.
Exterior and roof should be washed (if possible)
Interior surfaces should be wiped down
All trash should be removed
All food should be taken out (even sealed snacks)
The inside should be fully dry before it is closed up
Why it matters: If the RV is closed while damp, the musty smell will usually be waiting for you.
Humidity builds up quietly. Even when rain is not being seen, moisture can still be pulled into fabrics and air spaces.
Moisture absorbers should be placed inside
A safe ventilation plan should be used (only if secure and recommended)
Window seals and slide seals should be checked
Roof seams should be inspected for cracking
Why it matters: Small seal issues are often turned into big leak issues during heavy rain.
Tires are not meant to sit under full load in one spot for months.
Tires should be inflated to the recommended PSI
Leveling should be done correctly
Flat-spot prevention should be considered for longer storage
Why it matters: Low pressure and long sitting time are a bad combo.
A battery plan should be chosen before storage starts. Otherwise, the RV is often pulled out with no power and a lot of frustration.
Batteries can be disconnected and managed off-site
If electricity is available and rules allow it, battery maintenance can be done on-site
The plan should match your storage type and access
Why it matters: Dead batteries are one of the most common “first day back” problems.
Thirty days feels short, but Gulf Coast humidity can still creep in.
Every couple weeks (if access allows), a quick check should be done:
Interior moisture should be checked (especially closets and corners)
Roof seals and slide seams should be checked for leaks
Tire pressure should be confirmed
What usually goes wrong in 30 days: moisture buildup and low tire pressure.
At 90 days, your RV starts to feel like an empty building. That’s when moisture and pests can show up.
Add these steps:
Pest prevention should be added (entry points should be sealed)
Anything that attracts pests should be removed
A stronger moisture setup should be used
Tire PSI should be checked monthly
Common surprise at 90 days: a small moisture issue is often turned into a stubborn smell.
Six months is long enough for weather and time to do real damage. More protection is often chosen here, especially if the RV is newer or you want to protect resale value.
Add these steps:
A more aggressive moisture plan should be used
A storm-season plan should be considered (when applicable)
A mid-storage inspection schedule should be set (if access allows)
Seals and roof seams should be re-checked before storage begins
Why this matters: When storage lasts months, protection and routine checks are what keep small problems from becoming expensive ones.
“Secure storage” can mean anything. Details should be confirmed up front so expectations match reality.
Fairhope-area priorities:
Gated access should be provided
Cameras and lighting should be in place (ask what is covered and recorded)
Turning space should be available for backing in
Unit sizing and door clearance should be clearly listed
Clear communication should be provided
Nice-to-have: online payments. That’s helpful, but it should not beat security and access.
Roof, seams, and slides should be checked for leaks
Tires should be inspected for cracking and low pressure
Brakes and lights should be tested
The interior should be aired out before packing
Any musty smell should be addressed early
Mold risk is lowered when the RV is stored clean and fully dry. Moisture absorbers should be used, and regular checks should be done if access is available.
It depends on the facility and your risk tolerance. Longer storage plus higher storm risk usually pushes people toward more protection.